Family and Consumer News: A look at bromeliads

By: Adrianne Vidrine

With spring creeping up on us, I wanted to reprint a column on bromeliads written by Jeanne Gripp who was a Master Gardener volunteer for the LSU AgCenter.

Bromeliads are members of a plant family known as Bromeliaceae. The family contains over 2,700 described species with the most well-known member being the pineapple. Bromeliads grow only in the Americas with the exception of one species, which grows in western Africa. Some members may resemble yuccas or aloes while others look like green, leafy grasses. Spanish Moss is a bromeliad. Bromeliads may be found in a variety of habitats; from growing in the ground (terrestrial) or cracks in the rocks (saxicolous), to living on trees and telephone poles (epiphytic), from hot, dry deserts to moist rainforests; elevations of sea level to 14,000 feet.

Terrestrial and Saxicolous bromeliads rely primarily on their root systems for water and nutrients. Epiphytic bromeliads retain and store water in their leaves. Nutrients are derived from the insects and leaf litter that land in the water reservoirs of these bromeliads. The root systems of epiphytic species harden off as the plant grows to hold the plant to the host. These roots can be as strong as wire. Epiphytic species do not take nutrients from their host but merely use it as a support.

With rare exceptions, bromeliads will only bloom once. They put out other plants, called pups, after they bloom and then the pups will bloom when they are big enough. The mother plant will sometimes survive a generation or two before finally dying off.

Growing Needs

Bromeliads grow best in warm, humid weather with filtered sunlight and moisture. Very few species can take full sun all day. You have to adapt them gradually to the sunlight. All bromeliads require good air circulation.

Temperature

The cool evening temperatures of autumn will encourage more color in the leaves of the plant. Bromeliads will go dormant in the winter months. They can withstand freezing temperatures (31 or 32 degrees) for just a few hours. It is a good idea to place the bromeliads in a sheltered area during the coldest part of the winter. If they are brought indoors, place the plants in an area where they will receive high humidity and filtered light. Do not place the bromeliads under or near a heat vent, as the heated air can dry out the plant.

Propagation

Bromeliads form pups which can be removed from the mother plant and potted when at least half the size of the mother plant. Cut the pup off of the mother plant using a clean, sharp knife. It is best to take the bromeliads out of their pot or off of their bark home when separating pups so none of the plants or root systems are damaged in the division. New growth comes out of the center of the plant and the outside leaves die as it matures. The longer the pup stays on the mother plant, the faster it will grow. Lifespan varies from 20 years (large plants) to just a few years (small plants).

Water

Keep fresh water in the cup portion of the plant center. Water through the plant and flush out through the root system. Some plants may have to be misted periodically if the humidity levels are low.

Stress

The leaves of the plant will roll up under stress. You can sometimes bring the plant out of that state by soaking them and then watering them several times a day until you get the moisture back. To test for dryness - Press each plant together. If it sounds like paper, it is dry. Water once a week, but some species can go 2 weeks without water.

Fertilize

Do not over Fertilize. You may add a slow release fertilizer to the potting soil. It will encourage propagation but it can cause the plant to get leggy, and lose some color. Pour the fertilizer around the root system, not in the cup.

To Pot or Not to Pot

Bromeliads will get bigger in a pot than on a tree. In a pot you must keep watering them, but on a tree, if it has been raining, you do not have to do anything. Terrestrial and Saxicolous bromeliads will need to be potted in a soil-less mixture. Epiphytic species may be tied to a piece of bark or to a tree.

Potting Mixture

Pink bark mulch is best. Not the kind that can be bought in bulk at the nursery. Pine bark that is ground up. You do not want the soil to remain soggy as this may cause the bromeliad to rot. A good potting mixture consists of the following: four parts pine bark mulch, one part perlite, one part peat moss.

Size of Pots

Start out with a small pot unless you know it will need a larger pot. Plant upright, and place it in the center of the pot. Dampen down the soil to give it a firm fit.

Transplanting

The roots of the bromeliad are very hardy. You may cut off the pup from the mother plant and not plant it for a week and it will do just fine. Be careful not cut off the pup’s root system when separating it from the mother plant.

Transplanting onto Wood

Visualize what the bromeliad is going to look like when it matures. This will help you determine placement of the plant. Mount a plant when it is starting its root system. The root system must be next to the wood. Use pantyhose (it will cause less harm to the plant) to tie it around the limb of the tree. Cut a wide piece because you do not want it to break. Place some moss over the exposed side of the roots before tying the bromeliad to the bark. Once the root system is established, you can take off the pantyhose. You can also use a hot glue gun, or plumberís goop to attach the bromeliad to the wood as well. Consider these types of wood for your bromeliad: cedar, juniper, crape myrtle, oak, and driftwood. Do not use soft driftwood. The wood will rot, attract insects and cause problems for the plant. If using driftwood collected from the ocean, wash it, and let it bake in the sun. The salts contained in the driftwood can be damaging to the bromeliad and must be washed and baked out of it.

For more information, you may contact Adrianne Vidrine at 788-8821 or e-mail her at or visit our website at http://www.lsuagcenter.com.